Modern French meets kitsch: A first look at Dallas' Bullion with our food and architecture critics – Dallas News (weblog)

ML: Agreed. I used to be impressed with the way in which Davaillon performs with French delicacies by itself phrases — there’s no pretension of “farm to desk,” he’s not including smoked brisket as a result of we’re in Texas, he’s not raiding the Asian grocery to make some sort of synthetic cross-cultural delicacies, as a result of that’s what they’re doing on High Chef.

And but it’s not overly critical or treasured. I can’t assist however examine the Bullion expertise with what I’ve heard of Vespertine, the Los Angeles restaurant the place excessive trendy culinary formalism achieves a heretofore unexplored degree of pretension, with a $250 tasting menu in a bespoke tower designed by the architect Eric Owen Moss. That entire neo-trendy strategy, with its hyper self-regard, appears dated to me. Bullion, then again, appears to have discovered one thing new in custom.

MV: Sure certainly. Davaillon was by no means a fusion man (thank heaven), however he did appear to really feel some stress at the Mansion to offer his French cooking a little bit of a Texas accent. That’s why it’s so attention-grabbing to see what he’s doing now that he’s the boss. His approach is beautiful, as all the time, however now it’s within the service of food that’s extra ingenious, extra informal, and extra ingredient-targeted than conventional French delicacies. 

It’s what you’ll more and more discover in good eating places in Paris lately — and now, fortunately for us, in Dallas.  

Mark Lamster is the architecture critic of The Dallas Morning News, a Loeb Fellow at the Harvard Graduate College of Design and a professor at the College of Texas at Arlington College of Architecture.

Mark Vamos is a journalism professor at Southern Methodist College.

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Modern French meets kitsch: A first look at Dallas' Bullion with our food and architecture critics - Dallas News (weblog)